Travel journal
A Day in the Spa Town of Karlovy Vary
13 August 2024

Nestled deep within a picturesque valley, Karlovy Vary is a hidden gem that feels like stepping into a serene oasis. This charming town, renowned for its therapeutic hot springs and elegant architecture, offers a perfect blend of relaxation and cultural heritage. As we approached the town early in the morning, the clean air zone regulations meant that we had to leave our trusty van, Bandit, at the top of the valley and descend into the town on foot. Arriving at 9 am, we were ready for a day of indulgence, starting with a visit to the famous Saunia Thermal Spa.
A Day at the Saunia Thermal Spa
We had booked an all-day pass to the Saunia Thermal Spa, one of Karlovy Vary’s premier attractions, where rejuvenation is not just an option but a way of life. For 799 CZK (£27) each, we gained access to a world of relaxation that promised to soothe both body and soul. The spa features eight different saunas, each with its unique ambience and therapeutic benefits, and an inviting outdoor pool where we could bask in the sun.
The outdoor pool was a comfortable 32 degrees Celsius, perfect for a morning swim as we warmed up for the day ahead. For those seeking a more intense experience, the natural thermal pool within the spa offered a luxurious soak at 46 degrees Celsius, a temperature akin to a soothing bath that eased every muscle in our bodies.
After our time in the pools, we ventured into the spa's sauna area, where we experienced a variety of saunas designed to cater to every preference and need:
- The Finnish Sauna: With temperatures soaring between 80-90°C, this sauna offered a traditional, dry heat experience that was perfect for intense detoxification. The low humidity and high heat penetrated deep into our muscles, melting away any lingering tension.
- Aromatherapy Sauna: This sauna enveloped us in a soothing, fragrant steam infused with calming essential oils like lavender and eucalyptus. With moderate heat between 60-70°C, the Aromatherapy Sauna was a perfect place to relax our minds while benefiting from the aromatic scents that cleared our sinuses and rejuvenated our senses.
- Herbal Sauna: This sauna provided a steamy environment rich with the scents of fresh herbs such as chamomile and mint. The lower temperature, around 50-60°C, combined with high humidity, made this sauna a gentler option that was still deeply restorative and ideal for improving circulation.
- Salt Sauna: The Salt Sauna was a unique experience, with walls lined with Himalayan salt bricks that released negative ions into the air as the temperature rose to 60-70°C. Breathing in the salt-infused air was incredibly refreshing, and we left with our skin feeling soft and purified.
- Steam Bath (Turkish Hammam): With temperatures between 40-50°C and almost unbearable humidity, the Steam Bath felt like walking into a thick, warm cloud. The steam opened our pores, cleansed our skin, and soothed our muscles, leaving us feeling thoroughly detoxified.
- Infrared Sauna: Offering a more modern approach to relaxation, the Infrared Sauna used infrared light to heat our bodies directly. With a comfortable range of 40-60°C, this sauna provided deep muscle relief, especially for areas where we had tension and soreness.
- Bio Sauna: The Bio Sauna was a balanced option with a moderate temperature of 50-60°C and a gentle humidity level. It was an excellent introduction for those new to saunas, providing a calming environment that was easy to enjoy for longer periods.
- Cooling Pool: After experiencing the intense heat of the saunas, we braved the plunge into the Cooling Pool, with water temperatures between 10-15°C. The sudden cold was a shock to the system but left us feeling invigorated and refreshed.
This variety of saunas, combined with the luxurious outdoor thermal pool, offered a comprehensive wellness experience that rejuvenated both body and mind. We spent hours alternating between the different saunas, swimming in the warm pools, and soaking up the sun, fully embracing the relaxed pace of life in Karlovy Vary.
Exploring Karlovy Vary’s Hot Springs and Architecture
Before entering the spa, we took a stroll through Karlovy Vary’s famous colonnades, where natural hot water springs shoot high into the air. We stopped at one of the fountains and, following tradition, filled a small jug with the mineral-rich water. However, in a moment of amusement, Dana mistakenly tilted the jug too far and ended up with hot water splashed across her face, much to our shared laughter. The proper technique, as we learned, was to sip from the tube, which doubles as a handle—a quirky but effective design. The water, though hot and salty, is believed to have health benefits, and each spring offers water at varying temperatures as you wander along the town’s Main Street.
The buildings that house these springs are as much a part of the experience as the water itself. The grand colonnades, with their intricate designs and majestic pillars, were built to provide shelter for visitors as they took in the healing waters. These structures, dating back to the 19th century, are architectural masterpieces that reflect the opulence of the era when Karlovy Vary was a playground for Europe’s elite. Each colonnade is a monument to the town’s rich history and its long-standing tradition of wellness.
An Afternoon of Indulgence
After our three hours of blissful relaxation at the Sauna Thermal Spa, we were in the mood for more pampering. We decided to try out a Thai massage, something entirely new for Dana. The spa room was prepared with two massage beds, and we each chose our treatments—I opted for a traditional Thai massage, while Dana selected a coconut Thai massage.
The experience was beyond relaxing. The masseuses expertly pulled and stretched our bodies, relieving tension and easing knots that had been there for ages. At one point, the masseuse stood on my legs and back, a technique that was surprisingly effective at releasing the stubborn knots in my shoulders. The session ended with a head massage that was so soothing it sent me drifting off into sleep, complete with a bit of snoring that had Dana giggling. Dana, who had been apprehensive at first, emerged from her massage feeling like a new person, even joking that she might have the flexibility of a gymnast now.
Evening in Karlovy Vary: A Taste of Becherovka
That evening, we took to the streets of Karlovy Vary, exploring its lively bars and restaurants. The town is famous for its production of Becherovka, a herbal liqueur that has been made locally for over 200 years. We couldn’t resist sampling the various types on offer, and soon, the combination of the day’s relaxation and the potent drink left us feeling light-headed and blissfully content. As the night wore on, we navigated the charming streets back to our hotel, the Corso Boutique Hotel, where we crashed onto our beds, thoroughly exhausted and happy.
A Final Morning in Karlovy Vary
The next morning, we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast, complete with rich coffee that awakened our senses. Before leaving, we purchased a beautiful Bohemian flower vase, its vibrant colours a perfect memento of our time in Karlovy Vary. As we prepared to leave, we discovered a vernacular train that took us directly back to the car park where Bandit was waiting—a convenient find that would have saved us the uphill walk the day before.
Our time in Karlovy Vary was nothing short of magical. This small spa town, hidden away in a valley, offered us a perfect blend of history, relaxation, and luxury. It’s a place that invites you to slow down, breathe deeply, and enjoy the finer things in life. For anyone seeking a getaway that’s both tranquil and enriching, Karlovy Vary is a destination not to be missed.






















